Saturday, July 22, 2017

VERMONT HILDENE AND STATION RESTAURANT

http://www.historynet.com/robert-todd-lincolnHere we only pass through Massachusetts, but it belongs in this blog.
We went in quest of a senior National Parks Pass, but the entrance to the Manchester Vermont National Greenmountain area was closed.  Tough to get these passes.

We did go to Hildene for free. 



 for professional looks see these    PHOTOS FROM FACEBOOK


Another $40 value on the Clark membership, NARM level.  Hildene is a fine old house that Robert Todd Lincoln bought for his family after he earned his fortune on Pullman cars.  The last Lincoln descendent, Mary Lincoln "Peggy" Beckwith , who lived as an eccentric recluse at the house, died childless and left the house in tact with furniture and even some important old papers, so this house was as close to original as possible.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Lincoln_Beckwith
It was delightful.  Permeating the entire place were books and music.  There was an old organ with 242 rolls of music that Robert Todd Lincoln bought.  The organ piped into every room in the house and they played a couple sample pieces.  They don't use the actual rolls anymore, but transferred the roll instruction to a disc that tells the organ what to play. It was amazing ! 


Of course, the organ could also be played by hand and was.

Then in most other rooms were fine collections of books and often other music as well.







Plenty of reading areas in this house.  I suspect it was expected that if you stayed in the house, you were playing music or reading.








This was the kitchen maid's area.




The beds looked very comfortable.  Scattered around were flowers in vases that reflect the custom of the Lincoln's.  These are placed by volunteers who collect from the garden and arrange them every week.  Quite a lot of work.






Robert too to this bed as it was more comfortable during a time of physical difficulties.

Here is the children's bed.



These flowers were in a room where dominos were played.




Here in the grandchildren's room were more toys.

And a sled


This was a secretary's room with an interesting old type writer.





I was fascinated with the shapes of the stairways.  I liked that these were original and real stairways, not like those artificial show-off stairways of Twain's house.  In general, Robert Lincoln was not one to show off.  He had enough money to have build a more impressive house, but he chose this very comfortable and practical place with little ostentatious aspects.





The gardens that produced the flowers were all outlined by square cut bushes and quite fine.





Views from the garden were also wonderful





This tree is probably an oak.  It was in front of the house and looked very old, but the docent thought it had to have been planted after the Lincolns lived there because most everything was clear cut.


A car that had been used by the family was found and brought back for restoration.  The docent showed us the features, included a rumble seat and a door that opened to allow golf clubs to slide in.


1928 Franklin Roadster


Here were clubs used by the owners of Hildene.

Other interesting features included this old clock that chimed while we were there.

 This butter churn probably turned some of the butter that was made here.  Robert Lincoln sent 20 pounds of butter  month to Marshall Fields in Chicago.



In the Abraham Lincoln section were lots of old pamphets and such on Lincoln, some photos, and one of three stovepipe hats still in existence.  When he went off to Ford's theater, this is the mirror he checked his tie in.


This was an observatory near the house.







 Nearby is a restored Pullman Palace, a rich man's mode of transportation.  This one is one of the few left.  They found the shell of it in South Carolina and brought it back for a full and detailed restoration, amazing really.  There was a video of the work and it was awesome.
Sunbeam it is called.


 Here is a stained glass photo from inside.
PULLMAN IN HISTORY

The role of the Pullman car in history is very interesting.  It is clear that the company exploited the labor of the men it hired, many of them former slaves who had worked in the houses of rich Plantation owners and developed great skill in cooking and serving the sort of needs that folks on the railways required.  Is some ways it was an opportunity for African Americans and can be seen as instrumental in helping develop the Black middle class.  However, they were paid very low wages from which their clothes and food expenses  and perhaps rent were deducted, and they lived in Pullman, a town built for the workers.  Here too exploitation was at work. When the Pullman company lowered wages, they did not lower expenses.

Lincoln's role in all of this was supporting the company.  He amassed great wealth in his work, but it is a bit ironic that the son of the man who had greatly helped freed the slaves and improve their living conditions, worked to exploit those ex-slaves and their families in a new sort of slavery. 
Always in work there exists this issue of how much is paid to those whose labor is used.  We have it now in the battle for minimum wage.
Our guide said that the tips the Porters received were not only in money.  They were overhearing many conversations that helped them intelligently invest the money and many built up good nest eggs.  I imagine that they were privy to what now might be called "inside information"
It may perhaps be greatly changed in the future by the race of robots we create and the ease of exploiting their abilities and so not needed humans to work.  Since work is the way we distribute wealth, almost a religious principle, it will be a challenge in the future to protect the poorest among us from even greater poverty while robots create even greater wealth.

I am still researching Lincoln's views and role in all of this.  It is downplayed in most of the short histories I have found.

This article outlines how easily it would have been for Lincoln to be President.  He just did not want it.  He wanted his law practice.  


Afterwards we went to Bennington, just behind the spot where Bruce and Abigail used to sell garlic. We had a fine dinner at the Bennington Station restaurant.  This was an old train station and the still used parts of the station.  We ate in a area that was the entrance.  One of the old cars is used as a large refrigerator for the food used.
We loved the meal.  Both of us had fine, tender steaks and it came with a salad bar so it was easy to not eat the potato.  I ordered a bottle of wine that I liked.

This retails at $15 and they charged $20, so it was much less of a markup than most restaurants.

The waiter named Stephen was just grand in every way.  He even got the chef to leave the bread crumbs out of the clams casino that I ordered.  Amazing, really.


FURTHER READING:

http://www.hildene.org/about/estate.html
http://www.hildene.org/about/estate.html





Tuesday, June 27, 2017

CLARK MUSEUM FOR PICASSO, '06 FOR DUCK

We  took a drive up to the Clark Museum today to see two exhibits.  One was Picasso encounters.  Here is a good review with samples of that:
http://arthistorynewsreport.blogspot.com/2017/03/picasso-encounters.html

The other was
http://www.clarkart.edu/Mini-Sites/Orchestrating-Elegance/Exhibition

On the way we stopped at the Five  Corners for coffee and a sandwich. 

I ate just one bite and a few bites of greens.  My coffee was a vanilla flavored with chocolate powder added.  Very good.  Two cups for $2.55.


Both of the exhibits at the Clark were interesting and enjoyable.  Not earthshaking.  I could not take photographs, but here is what I remember.

Picasso Encounters started with his more conventional painting,  a self portrait, some other portraits.
Then it jumped to the cubism and abstractions.

I did like Portrait of Dora Maar
I would like to read a bit more about her.  She was a major lover in his life.  However, he kept his women in secondary status.  If they became assertive, he dropped them and moved on to someone else. 

I did not like The bullfight drawing.  It was much too abstract for me to find any of the images the little plaque said were there, except for the face of the bull.  The rest seemed just indecipherable.

ORCHESTRATING ELEGANCE

This included the piano shown in this link:
http://wamc.org/post/picasso-alma-tadema-open-clark

It is part of the permanent collection and usually housed with the Surrealist paintings upstairs.  We had not noticed it until they put it in the context of the room where it once existed.  The representation of that room was very impressive with restored seats, even to the monogram that someone had removed and the painting that hung in the room, a woman listening to Homer.

There was a very interesting circular table that was made to expand in a very intricate manner.  If the table was spun to the right, it opened areas that could be filled with expanding triangular pieces.  It was quite a process.  Two sets of pieces were available for two different expansions.  The designs were mounted in large drawings on the wall.  A video showed the table being expanded.  It would make a good poker table, the guard told me.  It was his favorite joke.  He told it to everyone.
https://apter-fredericks.com/2017/06/27/orchestrating-elegance-apter-fredericks-at-the-clark/


We sat for a while by the very calming pond of water with hills of green and grazing cows in the background.  The chairs were composite recycled materials and we asked for the company who makes them. 
https://lolldesigns.com/products/westport/

Amazing chair.  Astounding price.



I had a good nap to catch up again on a sleepless night.
Then we went for the half duck at '06 restaurant.  Another great meal.  They were nice enough to serve us the duck early. A great duck with plenty of garlic spinach and a mixed veggie. 
We got on the road and were home just a bit after 6 PM.




Sunday, June 4, 2017

OLD POST FROM CAMBRIDGE

Monday, May 27, 2013

Boston Birthday trip

We had a fine couple days in Boston.  I thought it would be just too short, but it felt just fine, just the right length.  It was to celebrate (again)  Elizabeth's birthday and of course to see Dana and Jen and Dan's new place.
The trip out was a bit boring.  Hard rain obscured most of the good views and made the driving a bit of a drag.  We stopped a lot for bathrooms and McDonald's coffee in order to create the need for more bathrooms. 
We had a fine visit out and arrived as planned at the Kendall Hotel

This was a luxuriant place build in what was once a Firehouse.  It was a museum in itself with plenty of small collections and bits of Firehouse memorabilia.
The suite included full kitchen, living room with fireplace, bathroom with Jacuzzi tub big enough for two, and plenty of interesting antiques.

 Looking over kitchen and living room.

and the kitchen itself



 

A fine antique desk of bird's eye maple





Every hallway and every corner included interesting antiques and collections

These photos contrast the way women dressed the year my grandfather was born with the way they dressed when he was thirty.
 






 This particular firehouse was called the Black Sheep of the fire department, so there is this collection and the restaurant is named, Black Sheep



 This in an interesting coffee table made from a piece of firetruck
Here is what my grandfather did for a living, only there were four horses pulling his engine.
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We took a walk to the Charles River and a bridge that gave us a fine view of sailboats, rowers in those long thin boats and other craft like



 








Right across the street from the hotel was this MIT COOP bookstore.






Dana treated us to a birthday dinner at a pretty upscale restaurant called Harvest. 

http://harvestcambridge.com/

Along with award winning recipes came restaurant practices that included buying local and sustainable.  Jen ate a filet mignon, Elizabeth and Dana had pork tenderloin.  I ate salmon.  And we had some other tastes in appetizers and asparagus.  With some of the meals came a wine pairing and that was interesting too.  I just had tastes of that.  I had a pea soup that was very creamy.
For dessert there were plenty of interesting tastes, but Jen ordered this award winning chocolate concoction that was really wonderful.  I had a taste. 
http://blogs.wickedlocal.com/cambridge/2013/04/10/harvest-pastry-chef-wins-food-wine-award/#axzz2UVTcwtRz

The next day we took the T to the Gardiner museum.  The nearby Museum of Fine Arts was free that day and the T was full of folks for that spot and the lines were hours long.  Out line was not so long and while the museum was crowded due to the holiday, it was still a great experience.
http://www.gardnermuseum.org/

I liked an 18th century guitar made by Jacopo Mosca-Cavelli and very similar to this one
http://www.diomedia.com/public/;jsessionid=12D9F9FECE152122E4B0502A01E4F566.worker1en/10921852/imageDetails.html

I also liked the large painting of Archangel Michael from 1480   with his foot on the satan, keeping the devil from taking souls.
http://www.gardnermuseum.org/collection/artwork/2nd_floor/tapestry_room/archangel_michael?filter=artist:3296

We all seemed to enjoy this large view of gypsy dancers in Southern Spain.  She is older than the dancers I saw in the 60's, but the rest ring true to my memory including the clay water containers set out on the floor to make the scene

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Jaleo

I was drawn to some paintings quite different from most of the collections, Morland Summer and Winter shots.

Also, this large depiction of The Tragedy of Lucretia, a 1500 Botticelli, seemed an odd piece to do for a wedding present.
http://www.gardnermuseum.org/collection/artwork/2nd_floor/raphael_room/the_tragedy_of_lucretia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Story_of_Lucretia_(Botticelli)

It was amazingly busy and full of action.  And sad.

But what do I know about art?  Not much.  Take this one that caught my attention.  Naked women and boats do seem to grab my attention easily.

http://www.gardnermuseum.org/collection/artwork/2nd_floor/short_gallery/my_model_and_my_boat?filter=room:1800

I'm sure that Elizabeth's, Dana's and Jen's experiences were very different from mine, but it was fun to visit this place, in part because the rooms themselves were pretty incredible, built to house the collection of Isabelle after her husband died and she was looking for something to occupy her energy.  She did live in this beautiful place.
In the center was a fine inner courtyard with flowers and sculpture and unlike the rooms, plenty of light.  It was covered with a glass ceiling many floors above the peaceful little place.

Many of the rooms had huge fireplaces.  Still it much have been cold there in the winter. 
Wall decorations of tapestry or tile or in one case an entire wall of leatherwork also added to the experience.

We had lunch in the cafĂ© built outside the old house.  The food was very good.  I had a baked trout garnished with odd bits I could not identify but wish I could reproduce at home.  And we had some homemade potato chips as well.

And overall we had a fine visit that was full and not rushed.  We caught up on all the new developments in the lives of Dana and Jen, heard about their work and their hopes for future work.  Jen soon moves much closer to her job with Turbine and that should take some of the pressure of long commutes off her daily routine.

They both seemed good.  Dana's place seem pretty comfortable for a single guy and of course included incredible computer equipment including a garbage can with a computer so that the top opened with no touching.

In between then great meals I had a taste of Indian at Dana's and a drink of a milk stout.  It seems Dana keeps milk as his main drink even when he drinks beer.




Our ride home was much easier than our trip out.  For the most part we had sun.  And even the clouds formed to make fine patterns of cloud and sunlight and fields were enveloped in mist.  We stopped at Salmon Run in Lee for a supper of salmon, mine a buffalo wing like taste and Elizabeth's encrusted with potato. They were packed, but the fellow fit us right in the middle at a little table.  It was lively, but a good bit of fun.

Today we just loaf about and for supper Jay and Judy will stop by.

VISIT TO CLARK FOR "VIRGINIA WOOLF ART

  We went to The Clark yesterday and finally viewed the "A Room of My Own" art collection.   Amazing!   So much variety in the kin...